Amsterdam
Amsterdam is a city that enchants in various ways: with its typical gabled houses dating back to the Golden Age, with the shimmering canals dotted with boats, and even more so with the centuries-old and cozy bruin cafés (smoke-stained pubs) illuminated by candles, where beer flows freely. Art enthusiasts will find few other cities with such a variety of masterpieces: just think of the richness of the collections housed in the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Stedelijk Museum, and the Hermitage. For music lovers, there is a rich lineup of internationally acclaimed concerts, which invariably sell out. For those attracted to the more daring aspects, there are the women in the windows in the red-light district and the coffee shops selling cannabis. Amsterdam is an extremely compact and accessible city, with a limited center to explore on foot and characteristic alleys that always hide some surprises: a hidden garden, an antique book market, a seventeenth-century distillery – authentic microcosms where nothing ever presents itself the same way twice.
Day 1
Framed by a new, sparkling glass entrance, the museum housing the world’s most extensive collection of Van Gogh’s works encompasses a magnificent series of masterpieces. Starting from the artist’s early experimental canvases, the museum traces his life, from the phase dominated by the joyful hues of sunflowers to the dark cloud that later descended upon him and his works. The museum also houses paintings by contemporary artists to Van Gogh, such as Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet, and Bernard. The lines to enter can be endless; tickets purchased in advance online and discount cards allow access through separate entrances where the line moves faster.
The Rijksmuseum is the most important Dutch art museum: a heritage of works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and 7,500 masterpieces by other artists spread along 1.5 km of galleries. If you want to avoid the peak of the crowd, we recommend arriving at the museum after 3 PM, or booking tickets online to access a separate entrance with a quicker flow. The highlight of the collection consists of works from the Golden Age: the subjects of still lifes, gentlemen with pleated collars, and landscapes suffused with a pale yellow light are a true feast for the eyes. The centerpiece of the exhibition is Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch” (1642). Initially titled “Company of Captain Frans Banning Cocq,” the painting assumed its current name only a few years later, after it darkened due to a layer of dirt that evoked the evening light. Don’t miss the blue and white Delft ceramics, the incredibly detailed dollhouses, and the brand-new Asian Pavilion. The sculpture garden surrounding the building is free to enter.
The Dutch consume more than 14 kg of cheese per person every year, mostly sold by De Kaaskamer, where wheels of gouda, edam, and other local varieties form towering stacks that reach the ceiling. The name means “Cheese Room,” and indeed, the place seems to overflow with a wide variety of Dutch and organic cheeses, as well as olives, tapenade, salads, and other products perfect for a picnic. Before making a purchase, you can taste the products; if you can’t take home a wheel of Gouda, at least buy a baguette with cheese and/or deli meat for takeout.
Once you reach Spui Square, just after the American Book Center, you’ll notice a modest wooden door: open it and take a look at the hidden little village called Begijnhof (p44), with its two ancient churches and gardens. Cross the courtyard to the entrance on the opposite side.
This sheltered complex of small houses and tiny gardens was built in the 14th century around the convent for the Beguines, a Catholic order of single or widowed women who cared for the elderly and led a religious life without taking monastic vows. The last true Beguine died in 1971.
Cross the courtyard to the entrance on the opposite side. From Begijnhof, head north for a short distance to the Civic Guard Gallery, filled with portraits of men with pleated collars and stern expressions.
Walk through the gallery and exit into the courtyard of the Amsterdam Museum on Kalverstraat. Continue down Kalverstraat to the Royal Palace, the residence of King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima; take a peek at the lavish interiors. Built in 1665 as a sumptuous town hall, in 1808 it became the residence of Napoleon’s brother, who was crowned the King of Holland. The imposing building boasts splendid interiors and magnificent marble decorations, including the inlaid floor with world maps in the grand burgerzaal (civic hall) at its center. At the entrance desk, you can obtain a free audio guide that explains in detail everything you will see. King Willem-Alexander only uses the Royal Palace for ceremonies; check the website for closing periods.
Next door is the New Church, where the Dutch monarchs are crowned. This late Gothic basilica from the 15th century is the place where Dutch monarchs are traditionally crowned and is newer only compared to the Oude (Old) Kerk. Several monumental elements dominate the sparse interior of the church: a magnificent oak wood inlaid chancel, a choir screen in bronze, an imposing organ, and an immense stained glass window depicting historical scenes. The building is also used to host exhibitions and organ concerts. Opening hours and ticket prices vary depending on the ongoing event.
Then, follow the bustling Nieuwendiik and walk to Zoutsteeg. At this point, try to overcome your aversion to raw fish and taste the famous Dutch herring at Rob Wigboldus Vishandel, a tiny place with only three tables. Leave Zoutsteeg and continue on Damrak. Cross Damrak and reach the side of Dam Square where the Nationaal Monument stands. Walk amidst the sea of bicycles, positioning yourself behind the monument to see the urns containing soil from World War II cemeteries.
Follow the road behind the NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky that leads to Wynand Fockink, a Dutch gin distillery dating back to 1679. This small tasting room, located in a covered gallery behind the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, has been serving rivers of jenever and liqueurs since 1679. It doesn’t have chairs or stools, but it’s a pleasant and intimate place to have a drink or two with friends. On weekends (at 3 PM, 4:30 PM, 6 PM, and 7:30 PM), a guided tour of the distillery takes place; conducted in English, it includes six tastings (€17.50, no reservation required).
The bartender will fill your glass to the brim, so follow the Dutch way and lean down to take the first sip: this way, you’ll avoid spilling any drops.
Day 2
In the former Heineken brewery, you can now take part in a self-guided tour, the highlight of which (aside from the tastings included in the price) is the multimedia area where visitors are shaken, sprayed with water, and finally subjected to heat, mimicking the process the beer undergoes. True beer enthusiasts might find it horrifying, but it’s a very fun experience. The entrance ticket includes a 15-minute boat ride that shuttles between the Heineken Brand Store, near Rembrandtplein.